It was the turn of men to strut the catwalks in Shanghai last week as Ermenegildo Zegna and Hugo Boss showed off their 2005 menswear fashions, writes Zhao Feifei.

No matter how hot women's fashions are, in China it is menswear that pushes the sales figures skywards on luxury items destined for male wardrobes. Men's fashions account for about 60 percent of the total market in luxury goods, according to Morgan Stanley.

Quick to realize the importance of the Chinese market, the Ermenegildo Zegna Group didn't bat an eyelid when investing heavily in a new flagship store in Bund 18 to celebrate its rapid growth in Shanghai over the past decade.

So far this year Zegna's turnover in China has already reached 447 million yuan (US$54 million) compared with 307 million yuan in the same period last year. In 2004, the group's net profit reached US$35.7 million, an increase of 14.4 percent over the previous year. In all of Asia, retail sales have grown by 34 percent.

In the mid-1980s, Zegna's only link with China was as a buyer of cashmere. Today, Zegna's boutiques are dotted across the country from China's east coast to the far west of Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region and the group has expanded to 52 stores in 29 cities.

The new Zegna flagship store on the Bund covers some 600 square meters. Customers can purchase Zegna designs off the rack or experience its personalized custom-fitting and tailoring services. Young American jazz pianist Peter Cincotti is the new image representative for Zegna. He gave a private concert in Huangpu Park following Zegna's show on Thursday night.

Men's suits in the collection feature smaller shoulders and a more fitted waist. Washed cashmere underlines the vintage sleek look. There are slim velvet jackets in cream or light-blue shades, reminiscent of styles worn by Marcello Mastroianni and Michael Caine in movies of the 1960s. Paired up with a turtleneck and scarf in contrasting colors, the pinstriped jackets create a classic dandy image.

In the casual look, light overcoats are protective as a raincoat, cargo-style cotton pants make a funky chic impression.

Another established menswear line, Hugo Boss introduced its 2005 spring/summer collection in a Suzhou Creek warehouse on Friday night. The collection is born out of the clothes worn by Steve McQueen and Burt Lancaster in movies ``Papillon'' and ``Bird Man of Alcatraz.''
Volker Kachele, the chief designer who took a bow at the end of the show, says that clothing is ``art for the body.'' His designs feature a mixture of classic and sporty elements that define Hugo's signature style.

Jackets made from various materials such as denim, cotton and nylon, wide-striped T-shirts paired with knit outerwear and thin leather outerwear paired with denim pants with faded stripes are examples of the Hugo philosophy.

Light nylons and hemp-like textured fabrics are used throughout the collection. From suits to shirts to dress slacks, all the menswear suits the heat of summer. The fading effects that are a prominent feature of many accessories act as contrast to natural fabrics. The trend leans towards a masculine elegance creating a dressy, yet light and casual, look.

Waisted two-button jackets are dressed down with different stripe patterns. Oversized nylon jackets in bright colors are inspired by a look usually associated with raincoats. Baggy pants with classic extended tab waist and with stitching on the front and back pockets are reminiscent of the 1960s styles. Jersey shirts with snap buttons in light, ribbed cotton are inspired by naval looks.

Other highlights rounding out the collection are short bomber jackets with stand-up collars, loose pants with conically shaped legs and a buckle at the waist, classic trousers with a high waistline.

The colors range from cold shades like dark gray to warmer beiges, oranges and greens to bright variations of red, yellow and blue.

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